CASA VALENTINE…

………WHEREVER WE ARE TOGETHER, WE ARE HOME

Scicli to Ortygia….(Part 2)

Written By: Arlene Ridolfi Valentine - Jul• 22•16

The first thing you do when you wake up in a seafront hotel is to look out over the water.   This is what we saw

Parking Problem, Ortygia, Sicily

Parking Problem, Ortygia, Sicily

when we looked out over the Ortygia waterfront to see what all the truck noise was about.  Two police cars and a tow truck with lifting device showed up at the same time, very skilled workers jumped out, harnessed up this little red Fiat and turned on the hydraulic lift…….

Parking Problem Solved, Ortygia, Sicily

Parking Problem Solved, Ortygia, Sicily

…..and without any exaggeration at all, sped off within five minutes.  Good luck traveller, in finding your car again and paying for your civil disobedience.
Once again being grateful that we are using public transportation on this trip, we set off to have

Cathedral, Ortygia, Sicily

Cathedral, Ortygia, Sicily

a look at Ortygia’s charms.  Its enormous cathedral jumps out at you not only because of its statuary and whiteness, but because it’s in such contrast with the size of everything else around it.  We had to visit, of course,

Quiet Alley, Ortygia,  Sicily

Quiet Alley, Ortygia, Sicily

but we were soon drawn into the surrounding maze of alleys which beg to be investigated.  I love to see the plants that mark entrances to shops or homes, to see the beautiful street lamps, even to see the colorful laundry that adds its own charm.

Via Crocifissa, Ortygia, Sicily

Via Crocifissa, Ortygia, Sicily

Upon turning into via Crocifissa, however, I had to get out the camera because there was so much going on.  For one thing, we were drawn to the tidiness and sweetness of the few tables set up outside a small trattoria.  Then there was the cat headed our way.  But the real grabber for me was the basket of goods being hauled by rope up to the top floor apartment a few doors away.  You can see the  basket just above the roof of the little white Cinquecento parked on the right.

Delivery in Progress

Delivery in Progress, Ortygia, Sicily

As we neared the restaurant and Umberto, the clever, well-dressed, polite maitre’d noticed our approach, the basket was well on its way to the top

Mission Accomplished

Mission Accomplished

where its shirtless recipient welcomed his prize without having to face yet another endless round of stone steps.
Our attention by now was fixed on the menu at Il Nuovo Fermento, and under the watchful eye of Umberto we scanned and made choices very quickly because everything we wanted to eat was right here…..

Caponata, Ortygia, Sicily

Caponata at Il Nuovo Fermento, Ortygia, Sicily

Caponata, one of my absolute favorite things to eat, came out of that kitchen with its aromas preceding it.  I didn’t even share.

Ortygia Antipasto, Sicily

Ortygia Antipasto, Sicily

The other side of the table (and he didn’t share either) was a selection of antipasti, old-style, with local cheese, salami, olives, and a bit of caponata sprinkled with pistachios.  Wow.

Cannolo, Ortygia Style, Sicily

Cannolo, Ortygia Style, Sicily

We were urged to try this dessert……instead of a traditional cannolo rolled into a little cylinder, this was a pistachio laden ricotta filling topped with crumbled cannoli shells, cinnamon and powdered sugar.  We heeded Umberto’s advice…..and we weren’t sorry even though we knew we had a measured amount of time to get back to that hotel room before we would both be comatose.

After Lunch, Ortygia, Sicily

After Lunch, Ortygia, Sicily

On our way, we passed another restaurant’s doorway and came upon a little creature who expressed our feelings perfectly.

Birthday Wishes, Ortygia, Sicily

Birthday Wishes, Ortygia, Sicily

It was a good birthday party……started off right and kept going for the two days we were here.  By the time the food coma wore off, we were boarding that sweet little one-car train again and heading back to Scicli.   Older, wiser, happier……and feeling like we won’t need to eat again for another few days.

Scicli to Siracusa…..the Birthday Trip

Written By: Arlene Ridolfi Valentine - Jul• 20•16
Scicli Chugger

Scicli Chugger

Lucky Russ has a birthday in July so we are usually free to have a birthday trip.  This July, since we are already in Sicily, he wanted to visit Ortygia (the little peninsula at the end of Siracusa).  Only fitting, don’t you think, for a retired math teacher to visit the birthplace of Archimedes.  So, we bought tickets and headed out to the Scicli train station early one morning, to be greeted by this sight…….it’s a one track arrangement (the second track is covered with overgrown greenery) which was perfect for the one-car train.  It’s been a long time since I was in a train that shifted gears as it picked up speed, but this little chugger moved at a pretty fast clip, stopping at a few coastal towns on the way to its last stop…..Siracusa.

Ortygia Street, Sicily

Ortygia Street, Sicily

Ortygia seems like a Sicilian version of Venice to me.  There are no canals, but there is water all around and the city itself is a warren of narrow and winding alleyways.  We wandered through whatever shady alleys we could find until we emerged

Temple of Apollo, Ortygia, Sicily

Temple of Apollo, Ortygia, Sicily

at the Temple of Apollo, oddly enough the starting point for the huge fresh market that goes on every morning.  It’s a riot of color

Sicilian Tomatoes

Sicilian Tomatoes

and aromas………even the fish section smells more ocean-y than fishy and it’s jammed with all kinds of

Oysters in Ortygia

Oysters in Ortygia

specimens……and quite a few characters as well.

Fishmonger and Client, Ortygia, Sicily

Fishmonger and Client, Ortygia, Sicily

It was nearing noon by the time we got to the end of the market and our attention was drawn to a huge crowd of people who seemed to be in line….all milling around a tented area…..

Borderi's Patient Customers

Borderi’s Patient Customers, Ortygia, Sicily 

We joined them when we saw what was going on.  And we had plenty of time to take it all in.  We waited for nearly an hour…….and the show we saw and heard was as nourishing as the indescribable sandwich we left with.

Gaetano's Show at Borderi

Gaetano’s Show at Borderi, Ortygia, Sicily

Gaetano is the sandwich-making artista here in the family business that is fast becoming famous.  Their focus is simple…….a sandwich of only pure, excellent quality, local meats and cheeses and produce that is made sublime by very original and crafty additions and combinations…….

Not Just A Sandwich

Not Just A Sandwich

While we all wait in line, clutching our numbers, we are entertained by his swift artistry in combining unusual combinations that are okayed by the current customer…….Fresh mozzarella?  Luscious green and black olives?  A layer of Caponata?  A Dash of something called Mozzarella Crema?  Thinly sliced Ham?  A Dash of Sicilian Orange Marmalade?  A Shaving of Lemon Peel?  A Sprinkling of Fresh Basil Leaves, Shredded by Hand?  We said yes to everything.  The whole family is wonderful, not just Gaetano……but he is exceptionally focused, knowing exactly when to pop on top of the counter a wooden cutting board laden with little tidbits to help keep the hunger of those of us waiting in line at bay for a bit longer.   Meanwhile, he chats….in a couple of languages…..about his wife, his two little children, his mother-in-law (at the cash register)…..and we all feel like we’re at an afternoon party.  By the time we exit with our meal (and every sandwich is at least that) we are happy to have been here for the past 45 minutes………the cost?   5 euro.    Everyone goes back, as often as they can!

Birthday Man, Pondering Life

Birthday Man, Pondering Life, Ortygia, Sicily, July 18, 2016

Ah, but the day is still young……and there’s lots more Ortygia to see.  Not the least of which is the spectacular Mediterranean Sea……as seen from the rooftop terrace of our hotel…..Domus Mariae Benessere.    To be continued……