CASA VALENTINE…

………WHEREVER WE ARE TOGETHER, WE ARE HOME

Everyday Sicily………The Events.

Written By: Arlene Ridolfi Valentine - Aug• 17•16

For us, a true travel pleasure is to go to a place we want to visit, find a comfortable accommodation, stay there for the whole of our allotted time and just take in the life that is going on all around us. It’s one of the easiest and perhaps most meaningful way in which we can really get to know a place.  Even though we have lived in Italy for the past thirteen years and visited Sicily before, we have always wanted more…..we have wanted to understand the slow lifestyle we heard so much about. And since we are true-blue foodies, we were particularly curious about the food habits, the shopping, the recipes themselves. Well…..Scicli did not disappoint on any front. We learned, firsthand, about living in intense heat. We learned about shopping in a very small-scale way, i.e., daily. We learned what going to the beach is really all about. And we learned about open-heartedness among strangers. We also found time to have a lot of fun. Here are some of the “cose quotidiane” …..everyday things…..that played out in front of us and brought us such pleasure and contentment while we lived among the citizens of Scicli, one sweet little corner of the Sicilian world.
We started off with two weddings the day after we arrived…….

Sicily Wedding, Scicli, July 2016

Sicily Wedding, Scicli, July 2016

Sicily Wedding, Scicli, July 2016

Sicily Wedding, Scicli, July 2016

followed by two funerals during the week……..

Sicily Funeral, Scicli, July 2016

Sicily Funeral, Scicli, July 2016

Then there was the unexpected spectacle of the Scout Troop Installation, right in the main piazza, followed by a blessing in the Church……….

Sicily Scouts Sworn In, July 2016

Sicily Scouts Sworn In, July 2016

And early one morning we opened our shutters to see why people were running past our door…..and we encountered a marathon in progress right through Scicli……

Sicily Marathon, Scicli, July 2016

Sicily Marathon, Scicli, July 2016

Another day we were surprised to hear a very loud engine noise coming and going and we went out to discover a tiny little one-man earth mover slowly transferring a huge pile of sand and dirt from our street corner all the way up a very steep and narrow alleyway where a bit of construction was going on……..

Sicily Tractor, Scicli, July 2016

Sicily Tractor, Scicli, July 2016

and later that day, construction events of another kind would appear.  Finding electricity for power tools requires a bit of creativity in Sicily as we discovered while walking over extension cords that snaked their way through a couple of streets in our neighborhood…….and we were not surprised when, a few hours later, someone plugged in one too many power tools and knocked out the electricity in the center of town for a couple of hours.   Now we know what how that big burn spot on the wall across the street from us got there!

Sicily Power Source

Sicily Power Source

Sicily Power Source Continues

Sicily Power Source Continues

Sicily Close Call

Sicily Close Call

For all the daytime activity going on, you’d think things would calm down by evening.  No way.  Scicli holds its own in the night life department.  To our great surprise, everyone goes out at night……everyone.   The piazzas are full, and tourist season has not yet really started.

Sicily Small Town Nightlife...

Sicily Small Town Nightlife…

As is the Italian custom, families are out with babies in strollers late into the night but here we also noticed a wider mix.  Many young people, dating or hoping to, young children playing games in the street, and most of the senior population (a considerable force in this town) also

Something For Everyone

Something For Everyone

dressed up and headed out for the evening.  Everyone has a good time.
On the home front, meanwhile, our daily experiences were sweet even if they were a bit different than what we are used to………

Sicily Veggie Man, Scicli, July 2016

Sicily Veggie Man, Scicli, July 2016

our veggie man, Dennis, showed up faithfully three times a week with the most outrageous array of produce.  See that curved basket at the rear of his truck?  Large, dark, aromatic cherries….each one perfect! By the time he left our stop, my neighbors and I would clear out that basket…..and I can’t even begin to describe the watermelons.  We would stay home just to wait for him…..his horn announced his arrival and he would hop out of the truck and take care of three or four of us at the same time and then be off in a roar.  One day he brought his assistant-in-training……his two year old son, Elio.

Sicily Veggie Man and Assistant

Sicily Veggie Man and Assistant

At this stage of his training, Elio was a bit more interested in all the goodies that his father’s customers offered him…..but still, he’s getting the hang of the route and the pleasure of being with his father all morning…..not a small thing in itself.
Our daily routine unfolded as daily routines usually do…..but our equipment was a bit different…….

Sicily Dishwasher

Sicily Dishwasher

our dishwasher and clothes dryer were models we hadn’t seen since the 50s……..

Sicily Clothes Dryer

Sicily Clothes Dryer

but in the area of home surveillance, we were covered on two fronts……..

Sicily Surveillance, First Line

Sicily Surveillance, First Line

first, by Ombra, the ever-alert puppy who lived above our front entrance and then………

Sicily Surveillance, 24/7

Sicily Surveillance, 24/7

by our kind and generous and ever-present neighbors who sat at their stoop pretty much non-stop……they were the ultimate nonni (grandparents) who had an unending stream of visits from kids and grandkids and even we two, strange as we were to them.
We loved our daily life here……it really is slower…..and I don’t think it’s only because of the heat.  I think it’s because of a mind-set that is most unusual in its patience and contentedness……and the heat.

 

Noto, City of Sicilian Baroque

Written By: Arlene Ridolfi Valentine - Jul• 27•16

A cloudy and windy day in southern Sicily does not bode well for beach-going.  It is perfect though for a visit to Noto, Sicilian Baroque at its most outrageous.

Porta Ferdinandea, Noto, Sicily

Porta Ferdinandea, Noto, Sicily

From the minute you walk through the Porta Ferdinandea, you’re strolling through history.  For sure, there are too many tourist venues pandering gadgets and flags and bouncing balls…..but even they can’t take away from the magnificence of what unfolds before your eyes as you walk down the Corso Vittorio Emanuele.  The old city of Noto was destroyed by a violent earthquake in 1693 and the entire city was rebuilt in Baroque style which was the fashion at the time.  I’ll just let the photos do the talking……..

Chiesa San Francesco d'Assisi, Noto, Sicily

Chiesa San Francesco d’Assisi, Noto, Sicily

Just a few steps under the arches and the procession begins…..the Church of Saint Francis of Assisi gets you in shape for the stair-climbing that is to come.   All of the churches and palazzos have grand entries.

Security and Screens Combined

Security and Screens Combined

This amazing building, not even a church or monument, has the most original screens and window moldings, not to mention its rooftop pediment which is literally over the top.

Chiesa di San Carlo al Corso, Noto, Sicily

Chiesa di San Carlo al Corso, Noto, Sicily

A few steps further along and the Church of Saint Carlo looms over the narrow street that is leading you directly to

Duomo, Noto, Sicily

Duomo or La Chiesa Madre di San Nicolo, Noto, Sicily

the Duomo……the Cathedral that looks out over all.  The same Cathedral whose cupola collapsed in 1996 and was rebuilt (just a tad shorter than before),

New Cupola, Cathedral, Noto, Sicily

New Cupola, Cathedral, Noto, Sicily

but still wonderfully frescoed (and hopefully safely reinforced).  Off to a side street, the same street on which there is an infiorita every year in May (when the street is completely covered in flower petals laid out in intricate designs and patterns), there is a palazzo that stands out because of its lavishly decorated balconies……here are three of them, exceptional in their lifelike forms……

Palazzo Nicolaci Balcony, Noto, Sicily

Palazzo Nicolaci Balcony, Noto, Sicily

The faces, oddly enough two per support, seem to follow you around……while the next balcony

Nicolaci Balcony, Noto, Sicily

Nicolaci Balcony, Noto, Sicily

features lion/horses charging forward……and yet another displays

Palazzo Nicolaci Balcony, Noto, Sicily

Palazzo Nicolaci Balcony, Noto, Sicily

female forms rising from the sea.   One more church nearby stood out because of its setting…..

Chiesa di San Domenico, Noto, Sicily

Chiesa di San Domenico, Noto, Sicily

the Church of Saint Domenico sits on a little rise with a magnificent pine tree of equal height right outside its door.
By now, all that stair-climbing and craning of necks looking upward had brought on a fierce hunger which was no problem at all since it was past noon and we knew right where we were going…..

Trattoria Carmine, Noto, Sicily

Trattoria Carmine, Noto, Sicily

The Trattoria Carmine, kind of nondescript on the outside, had aromas emanating that could not be ignored.  The only sign is a bit high to notice from the street……the entrance is up a flight of stairs….and I can only describe the inside by saying it brought back

Trattoria Carmine, Noto, Sicily

Trattoria Carmine, Noto, Sicily

a flood of memories of what New York City’s Little Italy was like in the 1960s.  Heaven!  We ate very well here……their own pasta with a sauce of sicilian pachino tomatoes, pesto, eggplant…..and a bit of roasted sausage on the side.  Sadly there are no photos because my camera just plain blew a fuse (too many baroque photos will do that every time)……but at least I got a shot of the sweet, happy and very talented Queen of the Trattoria Carmine Kitchen….

Queen of Trattoria Carmine, Noto, Sicily

Queen of Trattoria Carmine, Noto, Sicily