Just look at this pile of oranges…..they’re from Sicily and the aroma emanates for at least two city blocks! Shopping at the food markets of Florence has always held great fascination for me. I love to cook and there’s hardly anything more inspiring to a cook than a pile of farm fresh ingredients. Now that we are facing retirement and a possible change of address, the whole market experience has become even more highly concentrated for me. I have a fantastic fruit and veggie vendor on my corner…..I go there every day and they will get their very own blog entry. But there are also two very large food markets in Florence……Mercato Centrale (near the Santa Maria Novella train station) and Mercato Sant’Ambrogio on the other side of town which is the subject of this story………
There’s something very compelling about the signs that call out “nostrali” (our own) in a pile of fruit or vegetables. Even though Florence is a major city, it is surrounded by countryside and every day there are still farmers who haul their own produce into town. The goods are usually snapped up in a flash because no one bothers to bring anything to the market unless it’s in its prime.
These zucchini, for instance, with their blossoms still intact will need only the slightest effort to coax out their tangy flavor.
And this pile of greens……lettuce, spinach, artichokes and piles of celery…..are even identified by their farm location. The goods in markets like these are different than those we are accustomed to in the USA. Since they are right off the farm, usually just harvested, they are stacked in their natural state. They don’t always look polished and scrubbed so it’s a bit of a shock at first. But the aromas of each and every selection win you over and you suddenly don’t mind that you’re probably going to carry home a bit of dirt with your grocery order.
Another comforting habit in markets here is that each type of vegetable, if brought in from elsewhere, is identified by its origin……this is important since most cooks have their own store of specialised recipes from different parts of Italy, like these green “Roman” cauliflower heads which are really great in a pasta dish which originated there.
And everyone knows that the first of the Spring fruit arrivals from Basilicata are going to make you very happy (almost as happy as summer) whether you eat them for breakfast with your oatmeal or savour them all alone for dessert.
This show is ongoing….it’s there every morning and it’s crowded. These photos are only shots of the outside…….there’s a whole world of meats, fish, cheeses, breads and condiments waiting a few steps away in the large covered section of the market. If you love to cook, try to live in Italy for a while…..even if it’s just for a month. Stay in one place and just live life a little differently than you usually would. In a certain sense, it’s as entertaining and rewarding as visiting museums…….really!
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