We had heard some pretty scary stories about taking night trains in Italy. But a night train from Naples to Sicily……not just a night train but a night/boat train……was just too tempting an adventure to resist. Once we knew we could book a private cabin for two, we never gave it a second thought.
And so it was that we found ourselves at midnight in the Naples Stazione Centrale, along with about fifty other diverse travelers, hovering around a track that was empty except for a giant chugger of an engine. Right on time, a few large, boxy train cars were pushed into place and locked onto the engine. Suddenly, the place had the aura of an Orient Express departure……there were porters, train men, and each car had its own manager…..a trenitalia official who checked each passenger’s ticket against a photo ID, showed us to our cabin and gave some basic information about breakfast, etc., and then continued on the journey with us as our own private hall boy!
The cabin is very compact in a cozy sort of way. The little built-in sink/mirror/washing station opens out when needed and contains toiletry sets of toothbrush, paste, comb, towel and soap. When closed, it’s just part of the art-deco shaped wooden wall.
The berths, one lower and one above, are comfortable beds with firm mattresses and good pillows. We slept so soundly we never noticed the transfer of the train from land rails to the ferry boat rails for the short sail across the Straits of Messina. We woke up as we reached the shores of Sicily…….and when we looked out into the hallway
we found a morning sicilian newspaper left on the window rail outside our door. The porter soon arrived with a simple breakfast of coffee and rolls………and we joined many of the other passengers who were standing at their doorways
enjoying breakfast, reading the news, or in the case of Russ……..just watching the magnificent Mount Etna sending up her smoke signals as we sped by.
A few minutes later, we reached the end of the line…..Catania……where we found the bus that would bring us to our destination…..Scicli.
We like night trains……seems like an old-fashioned, slow-travel kind of way to get from one place to another. We have been on others in the USA and in England…..and the good news is that Italy holds its own in terms of comfort and reliability. Surprise, surprise!
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